Now that spring has sprung and summer is around the corner, I can’t stop thinking about dressing up in my favourite vintage dresses. Since I’m a collector, I am always on the look out for my newest find or to discover new labels I have never heard of before. Like today’s post that is another in my Vintage Fashion Designer Series.
Our designer today is……Nathalie Nicoli.
Never heard of her? Don’t worry I have not either! So let’s discover her together.
Disclosure: Some of the links on my blog from Etsy , eBay, are Affiliate Links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Note: If you click on an item and it is no longer available, don’t fret! The websites I have provided are updated daily with 1000’s of new & vintage items. Just do a quick search and see what you find.
Who was Nathalie Nicoli?
“She looks like the type of person who would wear the clothes she creates – a woman of poise and sophistication, more concerned with the good lines and appropriateness of the costume to the occasion for which it is designed than with its high style.”
Spokane Daily Chronicle – Aug 19, 1946 Source: Google Archive
- Nathalie Nicoli, or Nathalie Nicolaevsky was born on June 26, 1900 in Russia. Nathalie came to the US in 1923 together with her husband, Leon Leon Nicolaevsky as political refugees. He changed his name to Leon Nicoli.
- It was Leon Nicoli who founded the company Nathalie Nicoli, as well as a company called Mode de Paris (Source).
- Nathalie would then turn to the art she knew best – fine dressing.
- It seems like she designed only in the 1940s & 1950s (there is very limited information about her out there) and she died at the age of 80 as lifetime member of NAWCAM – National Association of Womens and Childrens Apparel Manufactures (Source).
“Madame Nathalie Nicoli is the designer in San Francisco who creates for the important specialty shops in leading cities throughout the country. She is the personality that sets the high quality of design for that center.
Today she owns her own establishments and makes well-bred clothes, ranging from casual sports clothes to dressmaker suits that include their own proper accessories – hat, muffs and scarfs that give importance to or enchance the wearability of the costume. “
Her Design Style (in the 1940s) (taken from the article above):
She likes clothes in soft, melt-in-your-mouth colors – the grays, blues, greens that flatter skin tones and eyes. She drapes with a relaxed hand – shoulders wide but easy, waistlines nipped, jackets and skirts slightly full.
Her credo is fine fabric, smooth detail and the flattery of the whole ensemble.
Her tailored dresses are never severe. Symetrical lines, soft tucking and slight fullness compensate for tailored trimness.
1944 vintage fashion ad featuring a Nathalie Nicoli dress (beautiful details!). Fabric by Forstmann.
Source: Pinterest & myvintagevogue.com
Jacobson’s department store ad for Nathalie Nicoli blouses, from the September 1946 issue of The Californian.
Liz note: I LOVE HER HAIR! It’s a braid that is sitting on top of her head (rolled up) with cute flowers placed in the front. Fantastic 1940s hairstyle inspiration.
Source: Archive.org
Lisa Fonssagrives in a brilliantly beaded restaurant suit from Nathalie Nicoli and matching bag by Forstmann Weelen. Harper’s Bazaar, October 1947.
Source: Pinterest
“Passwords to good buys”. 1948 magazine article on late 1940s fashions featuring different fashion designers.
Natalie’s design: “Capability”. Men’s-wear suits for all/every year, are made of new, softer cloths,in new, soft lines. Checked wool suit by Natalie Nicoli $80.
Source: eBay
Sherry Nelms in Forstmann wool suit by Nathalie Nicoli, hat by John Frederics, Vogue, August 1, 1951.
Source: Pinterest
Suzy Parker in Botany’s worsted rep suit by Nathali Nicoli, hat by John-Frederics, Vogue, August 1, 1953.
Source: Pinterest
Sunny Harnett in simple, elegant Forstmann’s worsted suit designed by Nathali Nicoli, hat by John-Frederics, Harper’s Bazaar, August 1956.
Source: Pinterest
1959 ad for a I. Magnin & Co “Step-Into Dress” by Nathalie Nicoli.
The tucked dinner shirt goes to new lengths, becomes a step-into dress by Nathalie Nicoli. In easy-care dacron-and-cotton. Light Blue, Moss Green, Charcoal Grey, or Black.
Source: eBay
My hunt for real life examples of our designers clothing came up with very little examples, but we still have some to enjoy as you will see below.
Vintage 1940s Strapless Evening Gown in pink and black with gorgeous bow appliques by Nathalie Nicoli (avail as of April 20th, 2022 HERE).
Side note: If you are a fan of vintage garment labels (the designs can be really lovely) then check out a past post I did on them HERE.
Source: Etsy
Vintage 1940s (might be 1950s) Nathalie Nicoli for ‘I. Magnin & Co’, wool gabardine cropped jacket (avail as of April 20th, 2022 HERE).
Source: Etsy
1950s woven oatmeal lightweight Nathalie Nicole wool dress with matching jacket (avail as of April 21st, 2022 HERE).
Source: Etsy
Adorable mid 1950’s professional construction from the Nathalie Nicoli of California label. This darling summer suit is made from a lightweight cotton fabric featuring a whimsical floral print in pale blue with pops of pink.
Source: Shopthrilling.com
I hope you enjoyed learning about Nathalie (of what I could find) and seeing her designs. I know I enjoyed learning about a new fashion designer and seeing her beautiful creations (might be my fashion marketing background)!
Friends! What was your favourite look from above? Share in the comments section below.
Further Reading:
- Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Ceil Chapman
- ‘THE HOUSE OF LUCAS’ – An Australian Vintage Fashion Label
- 1940s & 1950s Canadian Swimsuit Designer-Rose Marie Reid
- Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Nathalie Nicoli
- Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Emma Domb
- Vintage Fashion Brand Spotlight: Suzy Perette
- Carrie Munn-1940s & 1950s American Fashion Designer and Socialite
- The Fashions of Christian Dior 1947-1957
- Clare Potter-Trend Setting 1930s-50s American Fashion Designer
- Vintage Designer: Howard Greer-The Man with the Sixth Sense
- Ethel of Beverly Hills-Beautiful Vintage Sweaters
- Edith Head-Costume Designer Extraordinaire!
- Jonathan Logan-A Classic Vintage Dress Label
Liz