To me, nothing says “Fall/Winter” quite like a vintage Pendleton. These cozy jackets, with their timeless plaid patterns, and the beautifully designed blankets and accessories—often inspired by Indigenous designs—are absolute must-haves. Until about a month ago, I didn’t have one in my collection. But thanks to a clothing swap, I’m now the proud owner of a vintage Pendleton 49’er jacket (just as soon as I finish a bit of mending). I couldn’t be more excited!
In today’s post, I thought it would be fun to dive into the history of the Pendleton brand, take a peek at some vintage advertisements, and explore the vintage market to help you find your own stylish piece.
Let the fun begin!
Note: I will be focusing on the tartan / plaid patterns of the brand for this post.
Disclosure: Some of the links on my blog from Etsy , eBay, are Affiliate Links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase
Brief History of the Pendleton Brand
A tradition of American craftsmanship started by one family over 100 years ago.
Pendleton Woolen Mills has been in business since 1863, when Thomas Kay, an English weaver, began operating a wool scouring mill in Oregon. The company was formally established in 1909 in Pendleton, Oregon, by Kay’s family members, including his grandsons Clarence, Roy, and Chauncey Bishop.
The company is founded on an intimate knowledge of the wool business – from fiber to fabric. Whether it’s a wool garment, wool fabric, or a wool blanket, Pendleton offers over 100 years of expertise, imagination and dedication to quality.
HIGHLIGHTS:
- 1924: The legendary Pendleton virgin wool shirt is introduced in solid colors and colorful patterns
- 1929: Pendleton begins offering a full line of men’s apparel
- During WWII, Pendleton Woolen Mills switched to war production which meant that they mostly manufactured uniforms, blankets and clothing for soldiers.
- 1949: Pendleton begins offering a full line of women’s apparel
- 1960: Pendleton introduces washable wool
- 2017: Furthering its connections to the Indigenous community, we partnered with Manitobah Mukluks and Christi Belcourt, a celebrated Métis visual artist, to create a limited edition Pendleton blanket using their signature floral motifs.
- 2023: Pendleton products are proudly distributed in Canada by Ray Fine Enterprises (Yay!)
NOTE: The history of Pendleton is detailed ( (Founded in 1863), so please take a read all about the History of Pendleton on their website after your done with my post (including their relationship with the Indigenous communities).
Pendleton 49’er
At the beginning of this post, I mentioned that I owned a vintage Pendleton 49’er, but what exactly am I talking about?
Full History of the ’49er on the Pendleton Website.
In 1949, when market research identified an opportunity for sportswear for women, Pendleton entered the market with their first women’s line. This was a test offering of classic skirts, jackets and shirt, to test exactly how the American woman would react to a branded line of virgin wool sportswear. The positive response was resounding, but no one could have predicted the enormous success of a single garment introduced that year.
Says Linda Parker, head of Pendleton Communications, “The first women’s line in 1949 was composed of five items. It is amazing to me that out of such a limited initial offering that the 49’er would develop such an immediate following and reputation.” The jacket referred to both the year of its introduction, and the California Gold Rush, in a nod to Pendleton’s Western roots.
The Look:
The designer was Berte Wiechmann, a young woman who came to Pendleton from Jantzen, another iconic Portland apparel company. Miss Wiechmann sewed the original samples herself, taking styling particulars from the Pendleton men’s shirt. The 49’er jacket featured discreet tucking at the yoke, and two bias-cut patch pockets near the hem. The boxy cut showcased Pendleton’s famous plaids, and larger iridescent shell buttons softened the look.
Source: Etsy- ValhallaVintageShop (avail for purchase at time of post)
The 49’er was a hit!
The desirability of the 49’er was immediate, despite the introductory retail price range of $14.95 to $17.95. Says Parker, “We have many testimonials of how young women saved their babysitting and strawberry-picking money in order to buy a 49’er. Women everywhere had it on their wish list of gifts.” The first consumer was the collegiate girl, who were in the grips of a menswear inspired trend. The 49’er was perfect over a white cotton dress shirt over “trews,” narrow wool pants
Photo: 1950s image from Life magazine series of Jayne Mansfield cooking breakfast in a Pendleton shirt.
The FIRST Print Advertisement for the Jacket
The first print ad for the 49’er ad was done by Fred Love in 1950. A college girl in a MacLamond tartan 49’er pretends to ignore the cartoonish interest of the college boy behind her, snug and stylish in her 49’er. Love continued to illustrate the ads through 1951, when famed illustrator Ted Rand took over the job of communicating the Pendleton 49’er with ads that are still iconically beautiful. He changed the focus from the teenager to the woman, and incorporated elements of the Western landscape when he could (Source).
Vintage Shopping: If you are interested in owning your own 49’er, I have put together an Etsy Collection for the coat style that is updated monthly. Happy Shopping!
Pendleton Vintage Advertising
“What a happy moment…receiving or giving a new Pendleton for Christmas! 1950s vintage ad featuring plaid robes, plaid 49’er jacket and a plaid skirt.
Further Reading: Vintage Plaid Party Time!
“Depend on Pendleton for his Christmas gift with the timeless Prince Charles Edward Stewart Tartan, perfect for men’s shirts and cozy blankets”. A classic 1950s advertisement.
Source: Pinterest
Now I believe this is the real life version of the 1950s jacket featured above. The tartan looks exactly the same and it’s in great shape. Pick it up HERE.
Source: Etsy-ClubhouseVintageNY
The Men’s Plaid Wool Shirt History: In 1924, Clarence Morton Bishop came up with the idea to produce men’s woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Until that point, woolen shirts had been only used for work wear and hence they only came in plain colors. The Pendleton Plaid Shirts turned out to be a success and by 1929, Pendleton was producing an entire clothing line of woolen sportswear (Source).
Fun Fact: The Beach Boys used to be called “Pendletones” after the wool plaid shirts they wore.
“Outdoor Men never have enough Pendletons”. 1940s vintage advertisement.
Source: Gentlemen’s Gazette
The Reversible Skirt-THE TURNABOUT
Pendleton’s Turnabout debuted in 1953, and along with the poodle skirt, it was THE skirt craze of the 1950s.
Every teenaged girl coveted one. Their customers have shared their stories with remarks like, “None of the other parents on the block ever forgave my parents for buying me my reversible skirt, because after that, ALL the girls had to have one.”
How did the garment come to be made?
The idea probably arose from the fact that the interior of a Pendleton pleated skirt is almost as attractive as the exterior, as our weaving is beautiful on both sides of the fabric, and quality construction is our hallmark. There are no design notes, but one of our designers probably noticed how the colors changed on the interior of a skirt, due to the pleating, and started thinking about a skirt that could be worn either side out. A great idea, yes, but to construct a skirt that could actually be worn both ways required tremendous teamwork between designers and engineers. Even the closure and label required a special design.
The item was a work of engineering so precise that they had to patent it (Source).
Here is an example of a 1950s reversible skirt red plaid skirt available for purchase at time of posting. Isn’t it fantastic?
Source: Etsy-EmotionalOutletShop
“Our spring secret is out…Pendleton Skirts”. 1956 advertisement.
Source: Pinterest
Here is another real life example of the 1950s skirt featured above (avail HERE at time of posting). Love the blue paid pattern.
Source: Etsy-RiverTraceVintage
“The gift: authentic 1960s Pendleton wool robe for the lively warmth of “Merry Christmas”.
Source: Etsy-RetroReveries
Take home your very own men’s 1960s tartan robe to be the most stylish lounger in your home.
Source: Etsy-LostFortyThrift
1962 advertisement for the “Doughnut Skirt-the most stridable, danceable skirt ever”. Price: $16.95.
Source: Pinterest
And here is the wool circle skirt in real life, available to take home today!
I love that the label actually says “The Doughnut Skirt”.
Source: Etsy-PrettyinPDX
Another fantastic example of the Prince Charle’s Tartan this time on fashionable clothing for women. The ad features the 49’er, a tailored straight skirt, tapered trews, a vest, purse and matching hat.
Source: Pinterest
The Pendleton Triplet: A coat, a robe and a dress. 1950s vintage ad.
1957 advertisement for matching Pendleton jackets in blue plaid for men and women.
More Vintage Shopping: I have created another Etsy Collection that you can purchase vintage Pendleton items from, like the turnabout skirt (lots available). Take a look today and pickup something nice for yourself or someone else.
Question Time: Do you own a Pendleton? Or a brand similar? Share any thoughts on this topic in the comment section below.
Thanks for dropping by!
Further Reading: Vintage fashion archived blog posts 1920s-1960s
Liz
