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Category: Vintage Fashion

Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Nathalie Nicoli

Now that spring has sprung and summer is around the corner, I can’t stop thinking about dressing up in my favourite vintage dresses. Since I’m a collector, I am always on the look out for my newest find or to discover new labels I have never heard of before. Like today’s post that is another in my Vintage Fashion Designer Series.

Our designer today is……Nathalie Nicoli.

Never heard of her? Don’t worry I have not either! So let’s discover her together.

Nathalie Nicoli fashion designer in the 1940s and 1950s.

Disclosure: Some of the links on my blog from Etsy , eBay, are Affiliate Links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. 

Note: If you click on an item and it is no longer available, don’t fret! The websites I have provided are updated daily with 1000’s of new & vintage items. Just do a quick search and see what you find.


Who was Nathalie Nicoli?

“She looks like the type of person who would wear the clothes she creates – a woman of poise and sophistication, more concerned with the good lines and appropriateness of the costume to the occasion for which it is designed than with its high style.”

1940s Newspaper article on Fashion designer Nathalie Nicoli

Spokane Daily Chronicle – Aug 19, 1946 Source: Google Archive

  • Nathalie Nicoli, or Nathalie Nicolaevsky was born on June 26, 1900 in Russia. Nathalie came to the US in 1923 together with her husband, Leon Leon Nicolaevsky as political refugees. He changed his name to Leon Nicoli. 
  • It was Leon Nicoli who founded the company Nathalie Nicoli, as well as a company called Mode de Paris (Source).
  • Nathalie would then turn to the art she knew best – fine dressing.
  • It seems like she designed only in the 1940s & 1950s (there is very limited information about her out there) and she died at the age of 80 as lifetime member of NAWCAM – National Association of Womens and Childrens Apparel Manufactures (Source).

“Madame Nathalie Nicoli is the designer in San Francisco who creates for the important specialty shops in leading cities throughout the country. She is the personality that sets the high quality of design for that center.

Today she owns her own establishments and makes well-bred clothes, ranging from casual sports clothes to dressmaker suits that include their own proper accessories – hat, muffs and scarfs that give importance to or enchance the wearability of the costume. “

1950s Fashion: Nathalie Nicoli suit (L) Paula Brooks dress (R) 1952
Nathalie Nicoli suit (L) Paula Brooks dress (R) 1952. Source: Pinterest

Her Design Style (in the 1940s) (taken from the article above):

She likes clothes in soft, melt-in-your-mouth colors – the grays, blues, greens that flatter skin tones and eyes. She drapes with a relaxed hand – shoulders wide but easy, waistlines nipped, jackets and skirts slightly full.

Her credo is fine fabric, smooth detail and the flattery of the whole ensemble.

Her tailored dresses are never severe. Symetrical lines, soft tucking and slight fullness compensate for tailored trimness.

1944 vintage fashion ad featuring a Nathalie Nicoli dress (beautiful details!). Fabric by Forstmann.

1940s Vintage Ad (1944) for Nathalie Nicoli women's suit. Nathalie was a 1940s fashion designer.

Source: Pinterest & myvintagevogue.com

Jacobson’s department store ad for Nathalie Nicoli blouses, from the September 1946 issue of The Californian.

Liz note: I LOVE HER HAIR! It’s a braid that is sitting on top of her head (rolled up) with cute flowers placed in the front. Fantastic 1940s hairstyle inspiration.

1940s Vintage Ad: Jacobson’s department store ad for Nathalie Nicoli blouses, from the September 1946 issue of The Californian.

Source: Archive.org

Lisa Fonssagrives in a brilliantly beaded restaurant suit from Nathalie Nicoli and matching bag by Forstmann Weelen. Harper’s Bazaar, October 1947.

1940s Fashion Ad: Lisa Fonssagrives in a brilliantly beaded restaurant suit and matching bag from Nathalie Nicoli. Harper's Bazaar, October 1947.

Source: Pinterest

“Passwords to good buys”. 1948 magazine article on late 1940s fashions featuring different fashion designers.

Natalie’s design: “Capability”. Men’s-wear suits for all/every year, are made of new, softer cloths,in new, soft lines. Checked wool suit by Natalie Nicoli $80.

1948 magazine article on late 1940s fashions featuring different fashion designers like Nathalie Nicoli 2 piece women's suit.

Source: eBay

Sherry Nelms in Forstmann wool suit by Nathalie Nicoli, hat by John Frederics, Vogue, August 1, 1951.

1950s Fashion Ad: Sherry Nelms in Forstmann wool suit by Nathalie Nicoli, hat by John Frederics, Vogue, August 1, 1951

Source: Pinterest

Suzy Parker in Botany’s worsted rep suit by Nathali Nicoli, hat by John-Frederics, Vogue, August 1, 1953.

1950s Fashion ad: Suzy Parker in Botany's worsted rep suit by Nathali Nicoli, hat by John-Frederics, Vogue, August 1, 1953

Source: Pinterest

Sunny Harnett in simple, elegant Forstmann’s worsted suit designed by Nathali Nicoli, hat by John-Frederics, Harper’s Bazaar, August 1956.

1950s Fashion: Sunny Harnett in simple, elegant Forstmann's worsted suit designed by Nathali Nicoli, hat by John-Frederics, Harper's Bazaar, August 1956

Source: Pinterest

1959 ad for a I. Magnin & Co “Step-Into Dress” by Nathalie Nicoli.

The tucked dinner shirt goes to new lengths, becomes a step-into dress by Nathalie Nicoli. In easy-care dacron-and-cotton. Light Blue, Moss Green, Charcoal Grey, or Black.

1950s Vintage Fashion Ad: 1959 ad for a I. Magnin Step-Into Dress by Nathalie Nicoli. 1950s Fashion Illustration.

Source: eBay

My hunt for real life examples of our designers clothing came up with very little examples, but we still have some to enjoy as you will see below.

Vintage 1940s Strapless Evening Gown in pink and black with gorgeous bow appliques by Nathalie Nicoli (avail as of April 20th, 2022 HERE).

Side note: If you are a fan of vintage garment labels (the designs can be really lovely) then check out a past post I did on them HERE.

Vintage 1940s Strapless Evening Gown in Pink and Black with Gorgeous Bow Appliques by Nathalie Nicoli

Source: Etsy

Vintage 1940s (might be 1950s) Nathalie Nicoli for ‘I. Magnin & Co’, wool gabardine cropped jacket (avail as of April 20th, 2022 HERE).

1940s Fashion: Vintage 1940s "Nathalie Nicoli" for "I. Magnin & Co" Wool Gabardine Cropped Jacket. Square neckline with collar, attached bow detail. Three buttons at front of garment. Fully lined.

Source: Etsy

1950s woven oatmeal lightweight Nathalie Nicole wool dress with matching jacket (avail as of April 21st, 2022 HERE).

1950s

Source: Etsy

Adorable mid 1950’s professional construction from the Nathalie Nicoli of California label. This darling summer suit is made from a lightweight cotton fabric featuring a whimsical floral print in pale blue with pops of pink.

1950s Fashion: 1950's professional construction from the Nathalie Nicoli of California label. This darling summer suit is made from a lightweight cotton fabric featuring a whimsical floral print in pale blue with pops of pink. The set features a crop "jacket" top with glove length sleeves, notched lapel collar, and a perfect nip at the waist. The skirt has a nipped waist, nice full A-line cut, and a flirty youthful knee length.

Source: Shopthrilling.com

I hope you enjoyed learning about Nathalie (of what I could find) and seeing her designs. I know I enjoyed learning about a new fashion designer and seeing her beautiful creations (might be my fashion marketing background)!

Friends! What was your favourite look from above? Share in the comments section below.

Further Reading:

Liz

A Vintage Guide to 1940s Hair Accessories

As the 1940s rolled in, women everywhere began to embrace a new fashion statement – embellishing their hair with beautiful and colorful accessories. From pretty hair flowers to the useful & stylish snood, 1940s hair accessories spiced up women’s hairstyles and brightened up their looks. For those looking to add a retro twist to their style, learning about the various hair accessories of the 40s is a must.

In this article, you will discover the most popular 1940s hair accessories, how women wore them, and how you yourself can incorporate them into your look today (including where to purchase).

Put on your best vintage outfit and join us on a fascinating journey through the history of 1940s hair accessories.

1940s women vintage photo vintage hairstyle

Disclosure: Some of the links on my blog from Etsy , eBayUnique VintageRocknRomance Vintage Collectif are Affiliate Links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. 

Note: If an item you click on is no longer available, don’t fret! All the websites featured on my post are updated with new products daily. Do some searching and see what you can find. Happy shopping!


A Vintage Guide to 1940s Hair Accessories

1940s Turban / Draped Turban

1940s womens Turban design from a 1942 1943 Montgomery Ward Vintage Catalog

Hand draped, tucked turban from a 1940s Montgomery Ward Catalog-Personal collection

I cannot tell if our lady in this 1940 photo booth image is wearing a turban with a ruffled top or if it’s just a headband? Whatever it is, both looks are a great way to take curls or even straight hair that is a bit unruely, not washed etc. and give you a super fashionable look. She looks great!

FURTHER READING: Vintage Photo Tuesday: The Photo Booth

1940s vintage image of a woman in a photo booth with a 1940s hair accessory covering her hair (a headband).

Source: Etsy

How a British Woman Dresses in Wartime- Utility Clothing in Britain, 1943 

A model sits on a flight of steps to show off her scarlet wool Utility frock by Dorville at John Lewis and Co. Ltd., with front-gathered skirt and shirt-waist top (cost: 11 coupons and 60/-). She is also wearing a scarlet silk jersey turban and black suede gloves and shoes. Her ensemble is complete with the addition of a black wool Utility topcoat by Harella, costing 18 coupons and 90/9d. This dress is also featured in D 14782 but worn with different accessories to illustrate the versatility of the garment (Source).

1940s Vintage Photo during WW2 of how a woman dresses during wartime. She is in a dress, 1940s turban, jackets, gloves and shoes.

Carmen Miranda helped raise the profile of the draped turban as glamour wear.

1940s photo of carmen miranda in a draped turban 1940s turban

Source: Pinterest

Search terms to use when looking for vintage style hair turbans on websites like ETSY:

  • 1940s Hair Turban
  • 1940s Turban
  • 1940s Draped Turban
  • 1940s Hair Accessories
  • 1940s Turban Pattern (Sewing & knitting patterns)
  • 1940s Hairscarf (to be discussed further down)

Examples of online stores selling this 1940s turban look:

1940s Vintage Style Turbans-1940s Women's Hair Accessories.
FeralVintage on Etsy

Maybe you can sew

Here is an example of a ruffled turban sewing pattern (PDF) like the one our lovely lady is wearing in the first picture. Avail HERE.

1940s sewing pattern for a 1940s turban headband, 1940s Ruffled Turban, 1940s Turban Style

Source: Etsy

Are you a knitter and can’t decide what style of turban suits you best?

This pattern has three of the most popular versions in one pattern PDF.

Contains:
– The Roll Turban
– The Scarf Turban (great for holding in your pin curls)
– The Turban with Crown – a great hat substitute (Avail HERE).

1940s vintage knitting pattern for 1940s ladies turbans in different styles.

Source: Etsy

Fashion Tutorial: How to Tie a Turban & Accessorize! (1942)

Further Reading by Flashback Summer: Who can wear headwraps?

Excerpt: Two things I think we can all agree on to start (or the vast, vast majority of us at the very least can agree on), is that 1.) The question is not whether or not each of us can or cannot wear head wraps, but which head wraps we can rightly wear, and 2.) Religious head wear (such as specifically Muslim or Sikh styles) should only be worn by the people adhering to those religions or ideals.

Now that we’ve got that settled, let’s get into the not-so-clear part of head wrapping: Who can wear which wraps?
(READ ARTICLE HERE)


Hair Flowers

I’m obsessed with this hair accessory and I have quite a collection (& still growing) since I started getting into the vintage lifestyle many moons ago. They are truly an easy way to make your hair have that 1940s look. I even dedicated a full post in 2013 to them called, Hair Flowers-A girls best friend for an easy 1940’s vintage look.

Please make sure you visit the blog post linked above for images of how to wear hair flowers, vintage photos of people wearing hair flowers and other tips.

In the meantime here are some new imagery and where to purchase hair flowers (updated).

Pretty white hair flower worn in the back of 1940s hairstyle is a great look.

1940s vintage photo of a young woman with a 1940s hairstyle in a 1940s dress with a hair flower in her hair posing in a photobooth

Source: Etsy

I 1000% support matching your hair flowers to your blouse / dress/ swimsuit whatever! What a stunning photo of this woman with a flower on each side of her hair that perfectly matches her blouse.

1940s vintage photo of a woman wearing 2 hair flowers in her hair that match her blouse. She is also wearing a string of pearls. Fantastic 1940s Fashions & 1940s Hairstyle Inspiration.

Source: Etsy

“Lovingly, Gloria”. Well Gloria we are loving your perfect hair flower placement in your photo. Very glamorous.

1940s vintage photo of a pretty woman posing for a photo with hair flowers in her 1940s hairstyle

Source: Etsy

Two bathing beauties on the beach with victory rolls and super hair flower placement.

TWO JAPANESE WOMEN ON THE BEACH – 1949

Search terms to use when looking for vintage style hair flowers on the web (or Etsy)

  • Hair Flowers
  • Hair Flowers Pinup
  • Rockabilly Hair Flower
  • Tiki Hair Flower (if you want to be a bit more tropical)
  • 1940s Hair Flower

Examples of online stores selling 1940s hair flowers clips:

TIP! Are you a bit crafty?

Head to your local craft store and make them yourself. It’s super easy (and this is coming from a person who can’t craft without glueing my fingers together). Here is a helpful tutorial (link HERE).

Here is my crafty version (flowers from Michaels) for a Tiki look.

How to wear a hair flower-make it yourself

Hair Snoods

According to ‘Vintage Dancer‘ Hair Snoods… were a popular hair accessory in the 1940s for both daytime and work. They were a rayon or cotton crocheted net fitted with a headband. A headscarf could also be tied like a snood. The band, which was pinned in place, was worn around the top of the head and all of the hair would be encased in the snood. It was popular in the factories due to the fact that the women had to wear their hair back. This was a great way to do this.

1940s vintage photo of a young woman wearing a snood in her hair.

Source: Good Housekeeping

Here is a photo of Ginger Roger in the 1940s wearing a snood and pants heading off to help the war effort (or at least posing like she was).

Ginger Rogers, 1940s. Long hair in a snood in this 1940s vintage photo during WW2. Ginger is also wearing 1940s pants.

Source: Pinterest

1940 Fashion Frocks sample card showcasing early 1940s women’s fashions including how to wear a snood with your hat.

1940s fashion frocks fashion illustration featuring 1940s dresses and a woman wearing a snood with her hat.

Source: Pinterest

The below cover is from a Montgomery Ward Catalogue 1942 1943 and it’s from my personal collection (click the link or the image to see inside). Great example of how popular snoods were that it made it ONTO the cover.

Montgomery Ward Catalogue 1942 1943 Vintage WW2 Homefront front cover 1940s fashion

Search terms to use when looking for hair snoods on the web (or Etsy):

  • Hair Snood
  • Vintage Hair Snood
  • Hair Snood for Women
  • Hair Snood Pattern
  • 1940s Hair Snood
  • Vintage Snood
  • Vintage Hair net / Vintage 1940s Hair net

Examples of online stores selling 1940s style snoods.

For the Knitters & Crochetiers

The web is once again filled with patterns you can buy and videos you can watch. Here are a couple pattern samples I found on Etsy.

Pattern/instructions to make a 1940s/WW2 Snoods. 1 x knitted snood and 3 x crocheted snoods. The perfect finishing touches to that vintage/WWII style outfit (avail as a PDF HERE).

1940s hair snood crochet knitting pattern vintage hair snood

Source: Etsy

1940s Vintage Snoods Crochet Patterns: Two snood crochet patterns done in easy single crochet and chain stitch, one with beads and one with bows (avail as a PDF HERE).

1940s Vintage Snoods Crochet Pattern for Women

Source: Etsy

How to wear a snood? Many ways! Here a couple of good tutorials that show you how, but feel free to do your own research.

How to Wear and Style a Vintage Snood – Easy Pinup Hair with Miss MonMon (Video Link)


Ribbons

I love ribbons. Why? They are an inexpensive way to get a pretty 1940s look in a very short amount of time. I wear them all the time, in my typical 40s hairstyle I wear on the regular (seen below).

How to wear a bow in your 1940s Hairstyle as seen on the Vintage Inn Blog-Liz

The tip with a ribbon is to wear it anywhere on the head that makes the most sense for your hairstyle. Trust me when I say…”You will know”. Below are some examples of where your ribbon placement could be.

Now I understand this is a junior look in this image but as you can see in my photo above, you can 100% wear it as a 40 something old woman and still look classy. It’s all in the clothes you are pairing with it.

1940s vintage photo booth image of a young woman with a bow in her hair.

Source: Etsy

Candy Apples, Hair Bows and Bumper Bangs. Simple style for anyone to try. 

1940s vintage photo of 3 young Black women in school eating candy apples in 1940s fashions

Looking for 1940s hairstyle inspiration? Vintage sewing patterns are super resources! They were always showing off some of the popular styles of the day. Here is a super example from a sewing pattern for 1940s playsuit and pinafore dress. Look at the two cute ways the fashion illustrations are wearing their hair ribbons? Love it!

Vintage Sewing Pattern 1940s Ladies' Playsuit Blouse, Shorts and Pinafore Dress

Source: Etsy

1940s school photo featuring not one but two ribbons in our cute teenage girls hair.

1940s vintage image of a young woman with ribbons in her hair. Cute 1940s hairstyle

Source: Etsy

Where to buy Ribbons?

Well that one is easy…any craft store, dollar store, Walmart, Micheals etc.


Headscarves & Bandanas

Kerchief style of the head scarf (where it is tied under the chin) was a popular look to keep the elements off your set. Headscarfs were also being warn like snoods where it went under the back of the hair (see second photo). Want a Rosie the Riveter look (like our lady on the right in the first image below)? This was another option.

1940s vintage photo of young young women dressed in 1940s winter coats and 1940s hats and headscarfs in the winter
Idea on how to wear a headscarf in the 1940s

Source: Pinterest

A woman working on a dive bomber in Tennessee, 1943.

1940s Vintage Photo from WW2 of A woman working on a dive bomber in Tennessee, 1943.

This next photo is another great example of how scarfs were worn by women enjoying the winter weather but who also did not want to ruin those curls they spent hours sleeping on.

Pictured… the under chin option and the “Rosie” version.

1940s vintage photo of 3 women in the snow wearing 1940s winter fashions and 1940s hairscarfs

Source: Etsy

One more! LOVE the curls on our pretty young woman posing in a photo booth. This is a clear as day example of how you can make a hairscarf / regular scarf the perfect 1940s hair accessory. Everything works so well together.

1940s vintage photo of a young pretty  woman in a photobooth wearing a hairscarf on her 1940s hairstyle

Source: Pinterest

Search terms to use when looking for hairscarves or bandanas on the web (or Etsy):

  • 1940s Hair Scarf / 1940s Hairscarf
  • Vintage Hairscarf
  • Rosie the Riveter Bandana
  • 1940s Headscarf
  • Rockabilly Bandana / Rockabilly Headband
  • Land Girl Headscarf
  • Pinup Hairscarf
  • Nylon Hairscarf / Pinup Nylon Scarf
  • Nylon Scarf
  • Chiffon Scarf / Chiffon Headscarf

Note: For scarves you can use whatever makes you happy. Can be modern or vintage, does not matter.

Examples of online stores selling bandanas and headscarves:

How cute is this crochet Rosie the Riveter bandana by CuffburnCustoms (Canada)? (avail HERE).

Rockabilly bandana rosie the riveter look rockabilly pinup style

Source: Etsy

Sewing…

Once again, if you are handy in the sewing world here is a digital pattern for a collection of 1940s hair accessories (avail HERE).

E-Pattern- 1940s Hat Wardrobe Size 22"- Beret- Turban- Fedora- PDF. 1940 Vintage Sewing Pattern

Source: Etsy

How to wear a 1940s head scarf like Rosie the Riveter?

Take a look at Flashback Summer helpful post “1940s Scarf Tutorial“.

One more! Here is the very first video I ever watched where I learned how to do a simple head scarf look. Trust me, once you see this you will be shocked that you never did this sooner (video link).

Further Reading: Check out this great post written by the Women’s Museum of California – “Why did Rosie wear a bandana?”


1940s hairstyle vintage image featuring Ida Lupino
Use of a hair comb in this 1940s photo featuring Ida Lupino 

Here is a breakdown of other 1940s hair accessories not featured in this post:

  • Women’s Hats
  • Grips / Bobby Pins & Combs / Slides
  • Artificial Braids

For further reading on other vintage hair accessories from this time period (I could not possibly get to them all), make sure you check out the FANTASTIC website “Vintage Hairstyling” and her post entitled “Elegant Vintage Hair Accessories from the 1940s“.

Thanks for stopping by! I hope you found this post helpful and inspiring and if you wish to share your looks with me on social media or via email, please do! Here is how you can find ‘The Vintage Inn’ aka Liz:

FURTHER READING:

Liz

PIN THIS so you never forget about it!

A Vintage Guide to 1940s Hair Accessories like the Snood by the Vintage Inn Blog.